Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker

Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker (2013) is a work of biographical historical fiction by New York Times Bestselling author Jennifer Chiaverini. Like Chiaverini’s other work, the novel strives to represent historical figures and events realistically. Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker surveys the life of Elizabeth Keckley, articulating her professional and personal relationship with Mary Todd Lincoln during the second half of the 19th century. At its core, the novel explores Forgiveness as Ambitious Though Essential Work while navigating the complex relationship between an American first lady and her dressmaker. Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker appeared on the New York Times Bestseller list and was a Goodreads Choice nominee for best historical fiction.

This guide refers to the 2013 eBook edition published by Dutton, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.

Content Warning: This guide describes and discusses the novel’s treatment of physical abuse, sexual assault and rape, the death of a child, and racism and enslavement. The novel uses outdated and offensive terms to describe people of color, which this guide replicates only through direct quotation.

Plot Summary

Opening in November 1860, Elizabeth Keckley builds a lucrative dressmaking business in Washington City, holding a favorable reputation as talented, affordable, and discreet. Formerly enslaved, Elizabeth paid for her legal freedom and that of her son, George, who attends Wilberforce University in Ohio. Elizabeth rents a room in a boarding house owned by Virginia and Walker Lewis, her close friends. She works for the upper-class wives of prominent politicians in Washington, including Jefferson and Varina Davis. Her success in the face of insurmountable prejudice speaks to the Resilience and Agency of Black American Women. Although Elizabeth celebrates the presidential election of Abraham Lincoln, an abolitionist, she briefly considers moving south with the Davis family as the country faces civil war. Elizabeth discusses the opportunity with Virginia, who convinces Elizabeth she will be safer in the North. Elizabeth hopes to work for Mrs. Mary Todd Lincoln upon her husband’s inauguration.

Elizabeth’s ambition of working for the first lady is realized shortly after the Lincolns move into the White House. In addition to working as Mrs. Lincoln’s modiste (a fashionable dressmaker), Elizabeth assists the Lincolns with errands and tends to the family when sick, injured, or distressed. Elizabeth develops a close bond with Mrs. Lincoln, though their relationship demonstrates the Complexities in Friendship Across Racial and Social Divides. The American Civil War progresses, and Elizabeth often witnesses Mr. Lincoln grapple with difficult political decisions. George enlists with the Union Army, believing he is duty-bound to assist men and women of color to escape slavery. He dies in battle, and Elizabeth honors his memory by establishing the Contraband Relief Association, an organization supporting freedom seekers living in refugee camps in Washington.

The first family endures the loss of their young son, Willie, to typhoid fever. Willie is the second of the Lincolns’ four children to die from an illness. Mrs. Lincoln’s emotional health suffers significantly at this time, and Elizabeth serves as a pillar of support for the entire Lincoln family as they grieve. Desperate to feel connected to her deceased children, Mrs. Lincoln often holds seances at the White House and confesses to seeing the ghosts of her sons. Elizabeth encourages Mrs. Lincoln to be more skeptical; however, Elizabeth occasionally sees the ghosts of her late husband, George, and experiences premonitions of Mr. Lincoln’s death. Mr. Lincoln also dreams about his wake at the White House, distressing Mrs. Lincoln.

Mr. Lincoln signs the Emancipation Proclamation into law, causing Elizabeth and her community to view him as a savior like the biblical Moses. However, Mrs. Lincoln faces harsh public criticism as Mr. Lincoln nears reelection and continues to fight the Civil War. Elizabeth observes Mrs. Lincoln overspending excessively, surpassing her budget for her wardrobe and decoration of the White House. Still, her critics often depict her as lacking and unfashionable, which Elizabeth believes stems from her family background rather than her physical appearance. Often distressed, Elizabeth does whatever she can to comfort Mrs. Lincoln and improve her reputation. Mr. Lincoln wins reelection, and the Union Army sees several key victories; the end of the Civil War seems imminent. Elizabeth travels with the Lincolns to several southern locations seized by the Union Army.

Shortly after General Lee’s surrender, Elizabeth’s neighbor wakes her in the middle of the night, informing her of Mr. Lincoln’s assassination. Elizabeth spends the next few months with Mrs. Lincoln, Robert, and Tad, consoling the family and assisting them with their plans for the future. Mrs. Lincoln experiences insurmountable debt, with no way to support her family. She moves to Chicago with Robert and Tad, detesting the simple hotel room she can barely afford. Elizabeth remains loyal to her friend, though she begins to resent Mrs. Lincoln’s privilege and entitlement.

Upon her return to Washington City, Elizabeth is recruited by President Andrew Johnson’s daughters to make dresses. Elizabeth finds the women pleasant and easy to work with. Still, she resists taking jobs from the new first family out of loyalty to Mrs. Lincoln and disapproval of President Johnson’s policies and political beliefs. Elizabeth returns to Rude’s Hill plantation, where she lived as an enslaved person in childhood. The family who claimed ownership of Elizabeth warmly welcomes her, treating her as a distinguished guest. Although Elizabeth strongly disagrees with the family’s morality and political beliefs, her interactions with her former controllers usher in the theme of Forgiveness as Ambitious Though Essential Work.

In a desperate financial situation, Mrs. Lincoln attempts to sell her jewelry and wardrobe. She asks Elizabeth to assist her in New York City. Not wanting to face public humiliation, Mrs. Lincoln operates under an alias while hiding behind Elizabeth. Mrs. Lincoln attempts to blackmail Republican politicians into purchasing her items; however, this plan fails, and Mrs. Lincoln leaves New York worse off. Elizabeth’s reputation and business are also damaged by the “old clothes” scandal. She writes her autobiography to clear her name and improve Mrs. Lincoln’s reputation. The plan backfires, and Elizabeth receives heavy criticism from literary reviewers. What’s worse is that Elizabeth’s publisher prints Mrs. Lincoln’s personal letters without Elizabeth’s permission. Although Elizabeth attempts to contact Mrs. Lincoln and apologize, the friends remain estranged for the rest of their lives.

Elizabeth stays informed about Mrs. Lincoln from news stories. Tad Lincoln passes away from severe respiratory illness. Shortly after, Robert Lincoln forces Mrs. Lincoln into a psychiatric hospital. She is released to her sister’s care after a few months; additionally, Congress awards Mrs. Lincoln an increased yearly pension with a significant back payment. Although she achieves financial stability, Mrs. Lincoln dies shortly after from a stroke.

Elizabeth struggles financially after publishing her book. Bishop Daniel Payne from Wilberforce University hires Elizabeth as a professor in the college’s Department of Sewing and Domestic Sciences. She enjoys her work and the company of her students, who demonstrate good-spirited curiosity about her work in the White House and her relationship with the Lincolns. Her time as a professor is cut short after she experiences a minor stroke. Elizabeth returns to Washington City, where she will spend the remainder of her days in a home that supports women and children. Elizabeth takes pride in knowing the establishment is partially funded by an endowment formed for the Contraband Relief Association. A reporter interviews Elizabeth as she nears the end of her life. Elizabeth speaks very highly of Mr. Lincoln but refuses to give a detailed opinion of Mrs. Lincoln. She feels content knowing she will die free, having lived a marvelous life.